“This place, it’s
amazing. You must go.”
Many Germans,
including Eric, study English in school.
His vocabulary is extensive, and his pronunciation, for the most part,
is spot on. But his accent always made
me want to chuckle. He used funny words
like “inhabitants” instead of “people,” and he used the word “possibilities” to
denote not only choices but places to sit as well.
His funniest faux
pas was his pronunciation of lingerie.
He spoke the first part of the word as it is written as though he were about
to say lingonberries. He uttered the
latter portion without a French inflection that turns those last two letters
into a long A sound. Eric would often
exude great enthusiasm through his speech, and he swore almost as often as
ruffians from Boston. After traveling
alone all day, his company was very entertaining.
The next day we
agreed to walk about the town with his new friend Marcell, a Bavarian expat who
recently moved to Dublin. Eric met
Marcell on the telephone when he rented a car at Hertz, and they began chatting
in their native tongue. Before hanging
up, the two agreed to meet near the Spire, a giant needle in the heart of
Dublin’s O’Connell Street.
The three of us
convened, and Marcell agreed to show us around his new hometown. When I travel to a foreign place, I aspire to
immerse myself into the culture as thoroughly as I can manage during my limited
visit. So when I found myself
lollygagging around Ireland with two Germans, I can’t exactly say I was getting
the local tour, but the company was refreshing, nonetheless.
Eric and Marcell are
from two very different parts of Germany, so different that Berliners may have
difficulty understanding a Bavarian accent.
For the most part, my new companions spoke in English for my benefit,
and they both had unique takes on their second language. Every now and then, they would break off from
English and collaborate in German on the translation of a particular word. The conversation was already fascinating, and
these pauses only ameliorated this novel encounter for me. Sometimes I would have to wait patiently for
the translation as though the tip-of-the-tongue word were a buffering Internet
connection.
“It is important for
you to understand the—the specific... meaning of this word,” Eric would say as
we waited for Marcell’s translator app to process his request.
Nothing was trivial
in our discussion. Every word mattered
because it was clearly thought out. The
majority of our conversation dealt with the differences and similarities of
German and American life.
On separate
occasions both Eric and Marcell mentioned Nazis. They both told me that foreigners often
confront them about Hitler and Germany’s role in World War II. Some have even hailed to them while pressing
their two fingers about their lips to suggest the Hitler ‘stache.
“What Germany did
was horrible,” Eric said. “But we are
never allowed to forget it. We shouldn’t
forget so that it won’t happen again.”
“You had nothing to
do with the war,” I told him. “You
weren’t even alive back then.”
“Exactly. But people
always ask me, ‘Were your grandparents Nazis?’”
In order to console
him, I surmised that maybe certain Japanese people felt similarly toward
Americans because of the atomic bombs.
But this is only an assumption, which I’m sure contains at least a
sliver of truth.
I could tell this
was a touchy subject with my German friends, so I tried to be sensitive and to
use an appropriate tone when I told them about the Holocaust literature I had
been reading. I listed some titles (Maus, Night, If This is Man, Man’s Search
for Meaning), but Eric has not heard of these books.
“Maybe I don’t know
them,” he said, “because I don’t recognize their English titles.”
That was probably
the reason, although I wonder if Americans are more likely than Europeans to
find Holocaust material to be intriguing. Since the American public was so geographically
removed from the war in Europe and the concentration camps, the Holocaust took
on more of an imaginary quality. In the
novel A Separate Peace, Phineas, an
unruly student in New Hampshire, doubts the very notion that the United States
is at war with Nazi Germany. In his
world of delusion, he claims the war is a hoax designed to placate the
rebellious youth. Non-combatant Americans
were far from the action, but to European citizens the horrors were immediate. I could understand why they wouldn’t want to
stir up old nightmares.
I read in Bill
Bryson’s Neither Here nor There that
during the ‘90s there was still tension between Germans and other
Europeans. For many Americans I would
wager that this mindset is difficult comprehend. The U.S. has had its share of internal
conflicts, but I don’t think the country has fought its immediate neighbors since
Davy Crockett died at the Alamo. But even during the Texas Revolution, much of
the country was largely unaffected by the conflict. Germany, on the other hand, dominated nearly
the entirety of the European continent during the Second World War. After Germany’s defeat and dissolution, the
consequences of war were widespread. If
my neighbor attacked me, it would take me a while to grow comfortable living
next to him. Likewise, if I were living
in the Netherlands, I wouldn’t be so quick to forgive Germany for forcefully annexing
my homeland.
Despite the
sensitivity of the issue, I risked making a joke. As the three of us strolled through St.
Stephen’s Green under a faint drizzle, I said, “You’ll find this funny. Or least I hope you will.”
“When I was in the
seventh grade, I had this English teacher who was very strict about
grammar. If you had just one comma out
of place, you’d have to fix your mistake and state why it was wrong. She was so
strict about this that everyone called her the Grammar Nazi.”
Nobody laughed. I offended them, I thought. Stupid Americans will say anything. I’m an insensitive foreigner. I couldn’t possibly understand the social stigma attached to their country’s troubled past.
But, alas, the joke was simply lost in translation.
“Oh, in English, are the commas important?” Eric asked me.
I tried not to bore
him with a grammar lesson, but I don’t think I was successful. Nonetheless, I explained the various ways you
could correctly use a comma. Once they
understood, I received delayed laughter.
The Germans are a tough crowd when it comes to comedy. As we were eating fish and chips, I told them about what I had read in a book by Chuck Klosterman (Eating the Dinosaur) wherein he analyzes aspects of American culture.
Perhaps we’ve been influenced by laugh tracks from sitcoms. Whatever the reason, many Americans have this habit of laughing at remarks that aren’t funny. We laugh when we don’t know what else to say. If one is buying groceries and the cashier says, “Nice weather we’re having,” some would laugh rather than partake in small talk. I am guilty of this habit. I fake-laugh in order to appear polite and to feign interest during minor interactions. I don’t have the type of personality to appear abrasively honest, so I sometimes laugh at sentences that clearly are not hilarious. My laughter is not always genuine.
Chuck Klosterman is
a fake-laugher as well. When he was in
Germany, he made small talk with a cashier.
After making inconsequential comments, Klosterman would laugh at his own
words, but the German clerk would stare back, clearly not amused. Ever since I read that passage, I have tried
to break this habit.
“Now I try to be
like the Germans,” I told my friends.
“If a joke is not funny, I will not laugh.”
Apparently, this
story was a hit because even the Germans were chuckling.
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