The custom officers
always appear polite with their small talk, but, truthfully, they scrutinize
you and wait for you to trip up on their simple questions.
“What brings you to
Ireland?” the officer inquired.
“Tourism,” I meekly
replied.
“How long are you
staying?”
I honestly didn’t
know. I make the schedule up as I
go. I book a few nights in a
hostel. If I like the place, I stay
longer. If I get bored, I leave.
“Four, maybe five
days,” I answered.
He offers me a
subtle, penetrating gaze searching for signs of violent compulsions and an
anti-patriotic stance against his home country.
He found none, so he stamped my passport.
The doors open to a
new city. Another quest begins. There are many steps in this process, but
first: where are the buses? My previous foibles in Edinburgh taught me
not to be shy. I must be assertive and
speak up when necessary. Then again, I
prefer to be self-reliant. But it was
raining. I needed faster results.
“Where are the bus
stops?” I asked a man in an orange vest who worked for a charter bus company.
He revealed the
first clue. I followed the scent and
discovered a machine that dispenses bus tickets for €2.90. Before landing in Ireland, I wasn’t sure what
currency they used. I thought they used
to be part of the United Kingdom at one point, and I believed they used
pounds. I wasn’t well-versed in my Irish
history, so when I overheard stewardesses on the Ryanair flight selling refreshments
priced in both Euros and pounds, I deduced that Ireland was part of the
European Union. At the airport in Dublin,
I exchanged my £15 for about €16. I only
used the airport currency exchange because I didn’t have much money on me and I
thought it was necessary to buy my bus fare in cash.
I checked my phone
where I had stored a picture of the directions to the hostel. The correct bus arrived. On board, I felt inclined to sit on the
second story of the double-decker, but I needed to focus on spotting my
destination. If I sat upstairs, my
attention would waver. I’d start looking
all around, and I’d miss my stop. Strategically, it was smarter to sit by the
luggage rack and the door. If I had to
split quickly, my prompt exit would be more feasible.
An automated voice
announced the upcoming stops in English with an Irish accent, and then the voice
repeated the stop name in Gaelic. Both
languages are liable to sound foreign to someone unaccustomed to the thick pronunciation. At times, I thought I’d have better luck
deciphering the Gaelic. My ears were
pricked for a specific cue: O’Connell
Street. The robotic voice uttered
something that sounded like my stop.
Nearly everyone got up out of their seats, so I figured this must be the
place to get off.
My feet hit the
sidewalk. The belt on my pack gripped my
hips. The chest strap pressed against my
sternum. Another traveler sidled up to
me.
“Are you American?”
he asked me.
“Yeah. How’d you know?” I said.
“Your accent.”
There they go again,
thinking I’m the one who talks funny. I
thought my diction was neutral, but, here in Ireland, I’m the one with the unique
pronunciation. ‘Tis a privilege to be
the pariah.
The Irishman was
returning from a holiday in Australia, where they are currently experiencing
winter. Apparently, it gets cold there,
probably as cold as an Irish spring.
My new friend seemed
interested in me, this foreign specimen.
I patted my pockets and checked the status of my valuables. Everything was as it should be. My new friend was just that: friendly.
He asked me where I was staying.
When I told him, he said, “Oh, that place is no good. I read bad reviews. You gotta go somewhere else.”
Immediately, I
lowered my expectations. The Spire
Hostel was the cheapest in Dublin, and it fits with my protocol. I usually choose a hostel next to an easily
located landmark. The spire reaches
toward the sky. As a result, the giant
needle is rather hard to miss.
Perhaps
my philosophy failed me this time. Oh
well, I thought. A dodgy hostel may make
this trip more interesting. I shall
relish the challenge.
I have a moderately
clean bed, fresh sheets, a working shower, and a flushable toilet. For $20 a night, I’d hardly say I’m roughing
it. Besides, this trip was not a
romantic get-away. All I need is a place
to store my things during the day and a pillow to rest my head on at night.
Once I find my new
temporary home base, I’m in the clear. I
empty my bag and organize my sub-bags.
One compression pack holds my clothes.
One mesh bag holds my toiletries.
I stuff my necessities (Kindle, notebook, chargers) into my
daypack. This hostel doesn’t have
lockers in the room, but I’ve realized by now you have to trust your nomadic
roommates won’t walk out with your giant backpack. There’s an unspoken code of trust. Don’t steal my stuff; I won’t steal
yours.
There’s also the
improbable and inconvenient nature of lugging around two massive backpacks
around a foreign city. That kind of
theft would be so impressive that it would not anger me. If someone resorts to carrying over sixty
pounds of supplies with him, then I applaud that man’s efforts. Nonetheless, I carry all my valuables with me
and only leave my clothes in my large bag which I stash under the bed.
I always account for
the possibility that I will be robbed or burgled, which is why I carry two
wallets. I carry one in my front
pocket. Inside, I have some cash and my
debit card. I stash my second wallet in
my backpack. In my back-up wallet, I
store the rest of my cash as all as my credit card. This way, if I am pick-pocketed I won’t be
strapped for cash.
After I’ve settled
into the hostel, I roam aimlessly throughout the town. My footsteps are guided by my childish urge
to see what’s around the corner. I like
to get a feel for the city without a set itinerary at first. I find points of interest and then decide
which sites to explore farther the next day.
This is my third
city in less than ten days. By now, I
nearly have a routine——a warm-up exercise to acquaint myself with a new
place. Oddly, when I am confronted with
an unfamiliar land, I feel a tug in opposite directions. My first inclination is to explore, but I
also want to recoil. During my first
night in a new locale, I am usually struck with an intense bout of homesickness.
As I strolled by
Dublin’s Liffey River, I felt a strong desire to be home again in
Pittsburgh, the city of three rivers.
I miss watching movies with
my brother or playing silly games with my dog.
I miss how easy life can be. The
pantry is always in the same place, and I only have to restock once, maybe
twice a month. I never need directions
in my home town because I know where everything is. The water pressure in my shower is constant,
and in most aspects of life I am relatively comfortable. On the other hand, traveling is loads of fun,
but it also requires a great deal of work at times. The most crucial component of living a
nomadic lifestyle is one’s ability to adapt quickly to new surroundings.
Routines are to be
cherished. Each day at home, I would
watch a BBC nature documentary while I had my breakfast. I miss watching those shows each morning even
though I can do that whenever I wish.
But it is not every day I find myself in Ireland. I suppose I will reverse my psychology.
When I return to the
US, I will miss my routine of adapting to new cities. I will be watching a movie like Philomena with my brother again, and I will
think, “I wish I was out there in Ireland exploring,” even though currently I would
be doing the very same thing I yearned to do earlier.
Habituation is a funny
concept. Many song-writers have reiterated
the phrase, “We always want what we don’t have.” Sometimes that’s true. I could always go for a milk shake, but I never
want tuberculosis. When it comes to desire,
I believe most humans want a steady routine in one form or another. Working in auto-pilot conserves energy but reduces
sensory detail. But to break a routine, one
may feel lost. What should I do? Where should I eat? There is one simple solution that will solve all
these issues. To break one routine, you must
form another.
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